There are pretty waterfalls, and then there’s Fairy Glen. Known in Welsh as Ffos Anoddun, this narrow gorge just outside Betws-y-Coed is the kind of place that makes you stop mid-scramble and just stare. The River Conwy threads itself through moss-covered rocks and sculpted stone channels, tumbling over cascades into dark, cool pools beneath a canopy of ferns and ancient woodland. It genuinely looks like something from a storybook — and the swimming, for those who find their way down to the water, is as raw and exhilarating as the setting deserves.
Getting There
For sat nav, use postcode LL24 0SL, which will bring you to the Fairy Glen car park off the A470, roughly two miles south of Betws-y-Coed village. Coming from the village, take the A470 south and look for the turning beside the Fairy Glen Hotel — there’s a small signpost, but it’s on a tight bend and easily missed, so keep your wits about you as you approach. If you’re travelling without a car, it’s walkable from Betws-y-Coed in around 40 minutes on foot — avoid the busy A5 and A470 themselves; instead, head down Ffordd Craiglan (next to the Cotswold Shop in the village) for a quieter route straight to the entrance. You can also reach the gorge from the Conwy Falls car park to the south, following the riverside path — a walk of around 20 minutes.
Betws-y-Coed has its own railway station on the Conwy Valley Line, with services running from Llandudno Junction. It’s a lovely way to arrive if you’re coming from further afield and happy to walk or arrange a local taxi onward.
Facilities
This is privately owned land, and the owners charge a small fee to enter — currently around £1 per adult, 50p per children, and £1 per vehicle to park. Payment is via an honesty box at the access gate, so bring cash and the right change, as there’s no card reader on site. The car park is small and fills up fast on weekends and in peak season — arriving early is genuinely the best advice we can give. There are picnic benches on site, which makes it a lovely spot to linger after a swim. There are no changing facilities or showers, so plan ahead: a dry robe or a change of clothes left in the car is the way to go. The nearest cafés and amenities are back in Betws-y-Coed village, around two miles north.
Safety
Fairy Glen demands a bit of respect. The paths down into the gorge are steep, uneven, and can be seriously slippery when wet — wear sturdy footwear with a good grip, and be prepared to use your hands on the rockier sections. After heavy rain, the slate steps in particular become treacherous, and the waterfalls will be at their most powerful, so this is not the moment to push your luck at the water’s edge.
In the water itself, the River Conwy runs cold year-round, and conditions in a narrow gorge can change quickly after rainfall, with currents strengthening considerably. There are deeper sections in the middle of the river where swimming is possible, as well as larger rocks and boulders to perch on, but swimming is not recommended at all in high water. Always swim with a companion, never alone, and assess the flow carefully before getting in — if it looks fast or murky, save the swim for another day. The gorge walls are steep and exposed in places, so watch your footing on the cliffsides along the riverside path too.
Nearby
Conwy Falls is a short walk south along the river, and well worth adding to your visit. A larger, more dramatic drop on the same river, it has its own café — housed in a building designed by Clough Williams-Ellis, the architect behind Portmeirion — serving hot food and drinks, which is a very welcome sight after a cold dip. Back in Betws-y-Coed, Pont-y-Pair bridge in the heart of the village is a beloved local wild swimming spot in its own right, where the River Llugwy churns through a narrow rocky channel and swimmers have leapt from the rocks in summer for generations.